The Omega Speedmaster Uncovered
“That’s one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind”. I often wonder if Neil Armstrong was looking at the Omega Speedmaster on Buzz Aldrin’s wrist when he made that infamous comment…was it the incredible luxury timepiece or the landing on the Moon that inspired that statement? On reflection, it probably applied to both.
Few watches boast a story like the Omega Speedmaster. It’s one of the most iconic chronographs in horological history, revered not just for its engineering, but for its role in human exploration. This isn’t just a timepiece – it’s the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, the first watch worn on the Moon, and one of the most enduring designs in Omega’s line-up.
Whether you’re into vintage luxury watches, space-age limited editions, or the modern master timepieces like the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, the Speedy has a version that speaks to your taste and tells a story all its own.
In this guide, we’ll deep-dive the Omega Speedmaster’s origins, its evolution through decades of space and style, and assess what makes this amazing Omega a grail piece for so many collectors today.
The birth of a chronograph icon
The Omega Speedmaster Professional was originally launched in 1957, as part of Omega’s trilogy alongside the Seamaster and Railmaster. Its original purpose wasn’t intergalactic travel – it was motorsport timing. The “Speedmaster” name came from its groundbreaking tachymeter bezel, which Omega placed on the outside of the case – a world first for luxury watches.
Then came NASA. In 1964, the space agency began testing chronograph watches for the Gemini and Apollo missions. The Omega Speedmaster Professional was the only watch to survive NASA’s brutal testing: high and low temperatures, shocks, vacuum exposure, and more. In 1965, the Omega Seamaster Professional was officially certified for manned spaceflight.
Fast forward to 20 July 1969, and the Omega Speedmaster found its permanent place in history when Buzz Aldrin wore it during the first Moon landing. It’s fascinating to know that Neil Armstrong left his Omega onboard Apollo 11 as a backup for the Lunar Module’s failed timing system. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch was born.
Design and dimensions
Despite countless updates, the core design of the Omega Speedmaster has remained strikingly consistent:
- Case size: Traditionally 42mm, though variations include the Omega Speedmaster 38mm and larger 44mm cases in modern versions.
- Dial: The familiar tri-compax layout – 30-minute, 12-hour, and running seconds subdials.
- Crystal: Hesalite (as used on the Moon) or sapphire in modern versions.
- Lugs: Angular twisted lugs – iconic and comfortable.
- Bezel: Tachymeter scale in aluminium or ceramic.
From the Omega Speedmaster white dial editions like the Alaska Project, to the rich Omega Speedmaster blue variants and full Omega Speedmaster gold models, today’s catalogue balances classicism with experimentation.
Strap options and case materials
The Omega Speedmaster is a modular platform luxury timepiece. Whether you’re wearing a black Omega Speedmaster on a steel bracelet or dressing down with a NATO strap, its 20mm lug width allows endless customisation.
Materials range from classic stainless steel to titanium, ceramic, Sedna gold, and even Canopus Gold in high-end models. If you’re after something space-age with serious presence, the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon offers an all-black ceramic case on a black nylon strap for stealthy appeal.
Omega Speedmaster movements – from vintage manual to modern marvels
The Omega Speedmaster has hosted a number of movements over its decades-long life. Here is a breakdown of the most notable:
- Calibre 321 – The original column-wheel chronograph used in the Moon landing watches. This movement was reintroduced in limited edition Omega Speedmaster to celebrate the 50 year anniversary of landing on the Moon, and these models are still available today.
- Calibre 861 / 1861 / 1863 – Manual wind chronographs used from the late ‘60s through the 2010s.
- Calibre 3861 – Introduced in 2021, a co-axial, METAS-certified upgrade with anti-magnetic properties and modern chronometry.
- Omega Speedmaster Automatic – Seen in the “Reduced” line and some Date/Day-Date models, using modified ETA calibres.
- Omega Speedmaster Moonphase – Powered by co-axial calibres with added Moonphase and date complications.
The 42mm Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 (reference 311.90.42.30.99.002) in platinum on platinum is the feature luxury timepiece in today’s Omega Heritage Range for a cool £91,500! You’d need to be an astronaut to afford it, but this Omega Speedmaster is just stunning.
Whether you prefer hand-wound vintage feel or automatic convenience, there’s an Omega Speedmaster for you.
Special edition Omega Speedmasters
Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
As a nod to the fact the Apollo 8 astronauts were the first to see the dark side of the moon with their own eyes, Omega launched the Speedmaster Dark side of the Moon. It comes in at 44.25mm, in black ceramic, silver indexes, silver hands, and on a black nylon fabric strap. Although the original Dark side of the Moon chronograph was inspired by the lunar far side, it spawned other editions, including versions taking design inspiration from the Earth’s nightlight. These include ‘Black Black’ with a matt black dial, black indexes and black hands – causing some legibility questions, ‘Vintage Black’ with brown indexes and hands, ‘Pitch Black’ with Super-LumiNova indexes and hands and ‘Sedna Black’ with a framing 18K Sedna gold bezel ring, indexes and hands. In addition to these, there are the ‘Metorite’, ‘Grey side of the Moon’, ‘White side of the Moon’ and ‘Apollo 8’ models.
Omega Speedmaster Snoopy
The Omega Speedmaster Snoopy celebrates Omega’s role in saving the Apollo 13 mission, for which it received the Silver Snoopy Award from NASA. With charming animated casebacks and playful nods to the Peanuts character, these Speedmaster variants have become highly collectable – especially the 2015 and 2020 editions. We spotted Rory McIlroy wearing one of these after his momentous 2025 Masters win at Augusta last month!
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase
The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase adds a dash of romance with a beautifully executed Moonphase complication, often coupled with a date. These editions have textured dials including a galvanic grey-coated meteorite version, and a PVD black-coated meteorite plate.
Omega Speedmaster Gold
There have been several Omega Speedmaster Gold editions, from vintage Apollo 11 tributes to modern solid gold co-axials. These combine Speedmaster heritage with high-end watchmaking – not subtle, but undeniably desirable. These are often referred to as having Moonshine gold.
Omega Speedmaster 38mm
The Omega Speedmaster 38mm range reinterprets the classic in a more compact format. Great for smaller wrists or anyone who wants a slightly dressier take on the tool watch icon. These also introduce new dial colours, including soft silvers, pale blues, and even diamond-set bezels.
The Swatch x Omega Speedmaster MoonSwatch phenomenon
In 2022, Omega and Swatch collaborated, and launched the Omega Speedmaster MoonSwatch – a playful, quartz-powered tribute made from colourful bioceramic. While technically a Swatch, its branding, design, and concept drew heavily from the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch.The launch was an instant sensation, with queues forming worldwide. It introduced a new generation to the Speedmaster look with a much lower entry price (around £240), and reignited interest in Omega’s flagship Speedmaster line. To this day, you are unable to purchase a brand new MoonSwatch online, retaining the initial demand and interest from fans worldwide
Following the huge success of the original solar-system range, Swatch and Omega are introducing new versions such as the Polar Lights, Lava, Dessert, and the Mission to the Moonphase range – featuring you guessed it, Snoopy. To read more about the Omega Speedmaster MoonSwatch, check out our Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch article in the 10to2 Journal.
Highly appreciated and appreciating
The Omega Speedmaster’s cultural pull extends far beyond NASA and has reached the red carpet of Hollywood on many occasions. Some famous celebs spotted with it on their wrist include:
- George Clooney – A long-time Omega ambassador, often seen in Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and Moonphase models.
- Tom Hanks – Has worn various Omega Speedmasters since starring in Apollo 13.
- Daniel Craig – Has worn vintage and modern Omega Speedmasters off-screen.
- Chris Evans – Seen with a white-dial Omega White Speedmaster, one of the brand’s rarer gems.
- Mark Knopfler, Tom Yorke, and even Bill Murray have been spotted wearing an Omega Speedmaster on many occasions.
The Omega Speedmaster holds its value exceptionally well, especially for limited editions, vintage pieces, and anything with a spaceflight backstory.
If you’re looking for investment-worthy models, the antique Omega Speedmaster references (like the 105.003 or 145.012) have seen consistent appreciation, especially in original condition with full provenance.
Final thoughts
The Omega Speedmaster isn’t just a watch. It’s a bridge between engineering and exploration, between past and future. It’s functional enough to go to the Moon, stylish enough to wear to dinner, and varied enough to suit any wrist.
Whether you lean toward the classic Omega Speedmaster Professional, something stealthier like the Omega Speedmaster Dark side of the Moon Black Black, or want a space-flavoured piece with pop culture charm like the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy, there’s something in the range for every kind of collector and every wearer of a luxury timepiece.
With a legacy that’s literally out of this world, a community that spans the globe, and a design that’s only improved with age, the Omega Speedmaster remains the benchmark for tool chronographs – and a cornerstone of modern watch collecting. My favourite; well thanks to Rory McIlroy it’s got to be the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy, love it!
