5 luxury men’s watches every man should know
Luxury watches have long been part of popular culture, style, and collecting. Even if you only have a passing interest in watches, there are certain models that stand above the rest – the pieces you’ll constantly see referenced in conversations, collections, and watch discussions around the world.
This article isn’t about telling you what to buy, nor is it about the most expensive watches on the market. Instead, it’s about the five luxury watches every man should know. These are the luxury men’s watches that have become icons in their own right, recognised far beyond the watch community and admired by enthusiasts at every level.
From motorsport and diving to everyday wear and classic dress styling, each watch on this list represents a defining moment in modern watch culture. Some started life as professional tools, others became famous through film, sport, or celebrity association, but all of them have earned a place among the most recognisable watches ever made.
Whether you’re new to watches or already building an interest in horology, these are the names, designs, and references worth knowing in each watch category. They’re the watches that continue to shape collections, inspire new releases, and define what a luxury watch looks like today.
Rolex Submariner
If you’ve ever thought of luxury Swiss watches, chances are the Rolex Submariner was the first image that popped into your head. Released in 1953, it set the template for the modern dive watch.
The Submariner wasn’t designed to be a luxury statement at first – it was a professional’s tool, capable of 100 metres of water resistance, later improved to 300 metres. But thanks to James Bond strapping one on in Dr. No (1962), it quickly became part of the cultural fabric.
Design-wise, it’s deceptively simple: a rotating bezel to time dives, large luminous markers for legibility, and Rolex’s bulletproof Oyster case. It’s been refined endlessly, but the DNA has remained constant.
Why is it worth knowing? Because it’s probably the most recognisable and aspirational of all luxury wrist watches for men. Owning one is a feat, given the waiting lists, but simply recognising it means you understand what dive-watch design is all about.
Omega Speedmaster
The Omega Speedmaster Professional, also known as the Moonwatch, is the chronograph every man should know.
Launched in 1957, the Speedy was initially a racing chronograph. Its tachymeter bezel allowed drivers to calculate speed over distance. But when NASA tested watches for space in the 1960s, the Speedmaster passed with flying colours, becoming the official wristwatch of the Apollo missions. Buzz Aldrin wore one on the lunar surface in 1969, cementing its legend.
The Speedmaster’s appeal lies in its mix of technical purpose and romantic storytelling. The tri-compax dial layout is as balanced as they come, and the manual-wind calibre 321 (later 861 and 1861, now 3861) ensures tactile connection.
It’s the ultimate example of a tool transcending its category. Every list of men’s luxury watch brands worth its salt includes Omega because of this model. It’s a chronograph, but also an artefact of watch achievement.
Cartier Tank
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum sits the Cartier Tank, one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. Introduced in 1917 by Louis Cartier, it was inspired by the silhouette of Renault tanks used in World War I.
Rectangular case, Roman numerals, chemin de fer minute track, and blued sword hands – the Tank is elegance distilled into steel or gold. From Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol, countless cultural icons have worn one.
It’s important to understand the Tank because it flips the narrative. Watches are often about ruggedness or technical innovation. The Tank is about style, form, and the idea that less is more.
In the landscape of men’s luxurious watches, the Tank reminds us that sometimes the quietest designs on the wrist can speak the loudest.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
AP have recently made serious noise with their collaboration with Swatch, introducing the Royal Pop – which may be the first time a newer generation of watch lovers has heard of AP. But long before that, in 1972, came the unveiling of the Royal Oak. It was unlike anything seen before: a steel watch priced like gold, designed by Gérald Genta with its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet.
At first, many people thought AP had lost the plot. But the Royal Oak became a sensation, pioneering the idea of the luxury sports watch. It showed that steel could be luxurious, that design could be radical, and that watches could be as much about architecture as mechanics.
Today, it remains one of the most sought-after luxury men’s watches, with waiting lists stretching for years. Whether you love or hate the hype, the Royal Oak rewrote the rulebook.
IWC Big Pilot
Where the Submariner is about water and the Speedmaster about space, the IWC Big Pilot is all about the skies. It traces its lineage to oversized cockpit watches from the 1940s, designed so aviators could read the time without removing their gloves.
The modern Big Pilot, launched in 2002, takes that DNA and amplifies it. A massive 46mm case, bold numerals, an oversized crown – everything about it screams utility. Inside, IWC’s in-house movements deliver seven-day power reserves, further enhancing its tool-watch cred.
The Big Pilot matters because it represents aviation in its purest form. When you see it, you know it’s no fashion gimmick – it’s tied directly to IWC’s long history of luxury Swiss watches designed for the cockpit.
Not everyone can pull off a 46mm beast, but knowing it means you understand how aviation shaped the watch world. For anyone that does love the look of the Big Pilot, but doesn’t afford the wrist space, their is a 43mm version.
Final thoughts
So there you have it. Five iconic men’s watches that every man should know: the Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier Tank, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the IWC Big Pilot
Each represents a different archetype – diver, racer, gentleman, innovator, and aviator. Together, they form the foundation of men’s luxury watches as we know them today, with huge imitation and inspiration occurring across hundreds of brands.
Whether or not you ever own them, knowing them means understanding what makes luxury men’s watches more than accessories. They’re stories on the wrist, and help communicate our style and personality.
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